Fire....Good...

So, I've been crazy with my torch these days. My super-cool micro-torch. First, I began working with heating copper to add color to the metal. You can create a forest of fall colors simply by applying heat to copper. I've also discovered what happens when you heat sterling silver. It's called "reticulation" and you get amazing texture in the metal. Gorgeous. Both of these techniques are perfect for me because I am the most impatient person on Earth, and you can get amazing results very quickly. Believe me, if I can do this YOU CAN DO THIS!

I'm going to describe the two processes here so you guys can all run out to Home Depot and buy yourself a micro-torch (they start around $20.00) and create something amazing. This is perfect for those of you (ahem, that includes me...) that have ever been terrified to work with fire and metal. I have never been what you could call "handy" and always figured I'd burn my house down if I ever tried to work with a torch. But, I have conquered my fear and now have not one, not two, but THREE different micro-torches at my bench. Propane is now my friend.

So, take notes - here's the deal: I get all my metal discs, which is what I mostly use for rings, from Etsy . My favorite seller of metal discs and supplies is Hodgepodgerie. I use a variety of disc sizes, great for layering, etc. To really see the colors and textures in copper and silver you don't want to go much smaller than half inch. You'll also need a fire-block upon which to heat the metal and a steel bench block to hammer/shape/texture your metal. All these items are INEXPENSIVE and available on Etsy! Be sure to have safety glasses, a tall cup of water and pliers on hand to handle the hot metal.

Creating Color on Copper with Heat

First, shape your copper disc. If you want a cup, use a dapping block to curve the metal. You may want to simply hammer all over the surface--that's one of my favorite textures. You need to do your hammering, cutting, shaping prior to heating. Drill any hole you need for a pendant, ring layer, etc. NOTE: You cannot solder this after heating--you'll totally ruin your colors!

Next, clean your copper. I use a medium grit sanding sponge and really give both sides of the metal a good sanding. Then I rinse the copper in water and dry. Try not to handle the metal too much, you have oil in your skin sticks to the metal and will affect how the colors come up.

Place the copper on your ceramic fire block. Turn on your torch and hit the copper with a nice even flame, circulating around the metal to heat evenly. You will see the color change almost immediately. Play with this, move your torch closer to and farther away from your disc to see what colors appear. You'll get orange, red, blue and deep purple. The really great thing is that if you hate what you see, simply place your flame a bit closer and the colors will disappear! Once you have a color pattern you like, pick the metal up with PLIERS (it's screaming hot) and quench by dropping the metal in your cup of water. Remove from the cup and gently dry. If you don't like the result, you can always sand the surface clean again and start over. IT'S SO SIMPLE!!!

You need to seal the metal when you are completely done to keep the colors true. You can use a variety of sealants, I prefer a matte or gloss metal spray from Sculpt Nouveau. These sprays are specifically designed to seal metals like copper. You can also use automotive clear coat, available at any auto supply store (like Auto Depot). These are also specifically designed to seal metal. Two coats should do, make sure to let completely dry between coats.

THAT'S IT!! Here's a ring I made using heat-treated copper. Note: This doesn't work on brass. Brass just turns a yucky pink or black in flame.

Now, on to silver...

Reticulating Silver with Heat

This process is similar, but very different from working with copper. You can't shape your silver prior to reticulating. Heating the silver like this sometimes shrinks the metal, so you should actually start with a disc slightly larger than what you plan to end up with. It's very hard to reticulate small pieces of silver, they simply shrink away under heat, so start big. Remember, you can always cut and shape the piece when you are done.

First, clean your silver. Again, I use a medium sanding sponge, give both sides a good sanding, then rinse and dry. Place the disc on your ceramic fire-block and turn on your torch. Heat the metal evenly with the flame, moving the flame around the surface. What you are actually doing is heating the surface of the silver almost to its melting point. The silver usually turns dark first, keep moving the flame around, DON'T STOP. Don't leave your flame stationary either--if you point it too long in one spot you can burn a hole in the silver! The surface will begin to get really shiny and glow a bit red--you're getting close! When the silver is shiny everywhere it will actually go liquid on the surface--you will see the surface begin to "boil" in teeny-tiny bubbles. That's when the reticulation is beginning! Keep that flame moving and all sorts of things may happen. Bubbles may form that lift the metal in places, ridges and valleys may form. Bumps and lumps will appear everywhere depending on how you move your flame, etc. At this point stop, turn off your torch and quench the silver by picking it up WITH PLIERS and dropping it in your cup of water. When you take it out it will be an ugly, flat grey/black. That is the impurities in the silver coming to the surface. You have two choices here. You can "pickle" the metal chemically using a crock-pot (again, search this on Etsy--all questions will be answered) or you can do like I do (ever the impatient girl) and go at the silver with your sanding sponge. The black will come right off. Sand, rinse, sand, rinse, etc. till you can really see what you have. If you want more texture simply set the silver back on your fire-block, turn on your torch and get busy. Each time you quench, sand, and rinse, the silver it will heat easier and reticulate even quicker. You can do this several times till you get the effect you want. When I am totally done, I sand, clean and buff the silver with a dremel tool. Tarnex, yes, good old fashioned Tarnex, works really well as a final, super fast cleaning agent. Now you can shape the metal VERY CAREFULLY if you wish. Reticulating silver makes it brittle, so if you want to curve it be careful, hammer very lightly. You may find that the edges are especially brittle, bits may even break off, but that's part of the beauty of the effect--simply file your edges smooth.

Here is an example of a ring I just made with reticulated silver fused with sterling silver shot, set with an amethyst. YUMMY!!!!

Now it's your turn! Get online, get some tools, then start creating. I'd love to see what you make. Send me some photos and I'll post them here. If you have any questions about the processes described here, please contact me! Have fun playing with FIRE!

I'm all Etchy...

Been experimenting with etching and LOVE IT! Made two new locket pendants over the past couple of days, plus a ring, plus some earrings...basically etching anything and everything copper and brass. Here are a couple images of the lockets--one features a great collage image of a finch, the other a picture taken of my Mother when she was a girl. One of my favorite photos. More images to come--what do you think???

Just for Fun - Etsy can really rock sometimes. I love having a shop there, and am constantly inspired and surprised by the artists I discover. This "Mom and Dad" artist duo was featured on Etsy's home page and I really love the work! I'm not a huge "doll" or "figure" collector, but these creations are just weired enough to make me want one! Take a look at Cart Before the Horse!

Want to Come Up and See My Etchings?

I've been wanting to experiment with etching metals for quite some time. Recently, I came across a great blog post at Alternative Designs explaining how to etch brass and copper with ferric chloride. I'm very intrigued...planning to give this a try. Ferric chloride has to be disposed of properly when you are finished using it...luckily I have a great recycling center within 5 miles of my house. I'll let you know what happens.

I'd love to hear from you if you etch...what is your preferred method? Contact me and I'll post your advice and sources here!

Hummingbird image etched in copper.

Sunday--It was a Good Day!

Yesterday (Sunday) was a nicely productive day for me in the studio. My head was chock-full of inspiration from visiting my favorite artist's websites and blogs, and I was ready to try some new techniques and designs. I created four rings, each very different in style and appearance. One incorporates a vintage photograph and loose gemstones under a clear mineral crystal dome, one features a super-cool antique signet stone I found at a funky antique fair, the third features a hand-carved 800 year old bead from Africa, and the last is a huge stack of mixed metals hammered and heat treated with oil pastels. WHEW! Three of the rings are cold-connected, no soldering involved, and use my favorite copper and brass tube bezels in one way or another. I connected the elements using rivets and brass screws. How cool is that???

I'm most excited about working with oil pastels on metal (thank you again, Susan Lenart Kazmer). I had no idea you could work the colors into the metals (with or without patina), heat it with a torch or heat gun, then seal. The possibilities are endless, and I plan to do much, much more with this. I'll keep you posted...

In the meantime, here are a couple photos of the results. What do you think?????

All of these designs are available in my Etsy shop...

Mmmmmmm...Mokume

Remember when I posted about Reactive Metals? Well, I purchased some copper and sterling silver mokume gane from them and...well...WOW! I bought a 3-inch by 3-inch square, and Baldwin's patina to bring out the color in the copper (which the super sales representative reccomended, thanks!!). It sat on my workbench for a couple weeks 'till I got up the courage to actually cut into it. It ain't cheap, but boy is it GORGEOUS! This is the result, a pendant in a series I call "Perseverance". I used brass pipe, copper and brass sheet, sterling silver wire, brass wire and a 5mm faceted green tourmaline. Available in my Beadkeepers Etsy shop. Can't wait to make more...a matching ring perhaps?

Don't Forget to SAMPLE!

I can't believe I haven't posted about this before. I am a self-taught jewelry designer on a tight budget. With that in mind, I am constantly searching for bargains, especially with metals like copper, silver and brass. Copper and brass are relatively inexpensive and there are tons of sources for sheet, bar, tube and wire. Just do an online search or take a look at the Google ads running to the left of this post...most are about copper and brass sources.

What I wanted to share here is the wonderful world of SAMPLES. I have discovered that almost every metal sheet manufacturer will offer samples of their materials. I just got a sample pack of copper sheet colored with a variety of patinas. Ten 4 x4 inch sheets of copper, each colored with a different patina, for under $20.00!!! SWEET!

So, if you are browsing a metals site and don't want to invest in a large order right off the bat, or are not sure what you really want, ask if they offer samples!! Sometimes you can even find them for FREE!

OUCH! I Guess I Don't Really Need That Finger Anyway...

So I'm teaching myself cold connecting with rivets. I have some great books that illustrate the process (Susan Lenart Kazmer has a FANTASTIC book illustrating all the ways to cold connect), yet I continually go it alone. Why is it that sometimes you just have to figure things out on your own, even when you have great information at your fingertips? I find that I work this way often. Not sure if I'm just too stubborn or impatient to open a book first, or if this is just part of my "creative process". At any rate, my fingers bear the brunt of my self-taught "lessons". My left hand in particular, the hand I use to hold the teeny-tiny elements I am attempting to rivet together with a steel riveting hammer held firmly in my right hand. I've whacked the crap out of my fingers. Sigh, there goes my career as a hand model.

That being said, I love riveting. It is very easy once you have the right tools, and you practice a bit. I got my rivet hammers from Burnt Offerings Jewelry and Adornment. FANTASTIC mixed media artists, and they have great tools and supplies. VISIT THEM!

Here is my first cold connected bracelet. I made it using copper disks colored with patinas, layered with hammered copper washers riveted with sterling silver wire. I connected each disk "sandwich" with black rubber "O" rings. This took forever, I was learning as I went along, and I have to say that I was quite proud of myself when I finished. Now I know I can rivet with much more confidence and I'm already working on new designs.

So, don't be afraid to try something new--even if you don't think you have the perfect skills. Of course, don't be totally stupid--I'm not suggesting anyone teach themselves how to use a blowtorch! But, don't be afraid to pick up a hammer, or a book for that matter, and teach yourself something. Remember, Band-Aids come in the cutest colors and patterns now-a-days!

Continuing a Love Affair...Ahhhh, Patina

So, I've gone on and on about how much I love to work with copper, brass and chemical patinas. Well, Christmas came early for me--I got my new universal patina kit from Sculpt Nouveau. Talk about a kid in a candy store! This website has everything, I mean EVERYTHING you can imagine to work with colors on metal. The selection of patinas is endless and so are the possibilities. The kit I purchased has a over a dozen colors of patina, metal cleaner, sealers, and waxes all for $75.00!! TOTALLY WORTH EVERY PENNY. By the way, the folks at Sculpt Nouveau have some great videos using these patinas posted on YouTube. Just put "Sculpt Nouveau" in the search box.

So, I've been busy like a mad scientist mixing colors on metal and here are some images of the results...My first pin/pendant (and one of the most complex pieces I've done to date), and two bracelets I made using bezels made from copper tubing and brass bases. I so love these!!! I especially love the results you get from mixing blue and green patinas. These pieces are all available in my Etsy shop.

Aging Metals - The Beauty of Patina

Recently, I've come across a lot of posts, blogs and convos about coloring metals with patina. Everyone is searching for the perfect way to change shiny new copper, brass, and silver to appear like ancient relics, colored by time. Who new that there would be such a demand to look old? It is true, aged metals are gorgeous. Brass and copper turn shades of intense blue and green, silver can change to a virtual rainbow of colors, to deepest black. In this post, I will be sharing with you my experiences coloring copper, brass, and sterling silver. I also invite you to comment here, and share your tips and tricks. I'd also love to share photos of works in progress and finished designs using patina colored metals. Contact me with your photos and ideas!!

First, what is "patina"? According to Wikipedia, "Patina is a coating of various chemical compounds such as oxides or carbonates formed on the surface of metal during exposure to weathering. The green patina that forms naturally on copper and bronze is known as verdigris and consists of copper carbonate. Patina also refers to accumulated changes in surface texture and colour that result from normal use of an object such as a coin or a piece of furniture." Well, if you don't have the patience to wait months or years to let a piece of metal patina naturally, there are many chemical patinas commercially available that will do virtually the same thing in hours. My favorite sources for copper and brass patinas are Modern Masters and Michael's Crafts. Both offer a line of metal infused paints and chemical patinas that will change copper and brass to green, blue, brown and black. Simply spritz or brush on the patina of your choice and you can virtually watch the colors begin to change! The photo here is of a pendant I made using a solid copper bead I sprayed with green patina then sealed with automotive clear coat. I also always have brass ager on hand from Kennedy Hardware. This turns brass and copper deep brown to black depending on how long you leave it in the solution. All patinas must be sealed with a top coat or the colors may fade or flake off. Modern Masters sells a gloss and flat UV stable topcoat specifically designed for metals treated with patina. Otherwise you can try light coats of acrylic sprays. Use caution here, products not specifically designed for metals treated with patina can actually make your colors disappear (I speak from experience here...ugh!). A trick I use quite frequently for copper and brass is to spray on layers of automotive clear coat from my local Discount Auto Parts store. Acrylic spray for cars is specially formulated for metals and works quite well--giving a strong, durable finish without changing the color of the patina.

There are also some great books out on coloring metal--I just got "The Jeweler's Directory of Decorative Finishes" by Jinks McGrath. A great source for patina ideas (and much more) with formulations you can make at home. Last night I tried the formula recommended for turning copper and brass indigo blue--something I have wanted to do forever. Simply take a medium sized plastic container with an air tight lid and place a smaller ( I used a baby food jar), open container of common household ammonia inside to one end ( I got the ammonia at my local grocery store in the cleaning products aisle). Prep your copper/brass by sanding, and wiping down with warm saltwater. Place the metal next to the open ammonia container. From here you can do a couple things to add texture to your patina. I sprinkled salt and vinegar on one piece of copper, left another bare, and left the brass bare. Cover the container with the airtight lid and leave for at least three hours up to overnight. You will be amazed at the color you get!!! The copper treated with salt and vinegar got a mottled, spotted coloration of deep blue and black. The untreated metals turned lovely indigo blue. When the colors reach your desired intensity, simply take the metals out, rinse thoroughly, pat dry and seal. Kind of magical actually....The book also describes a similar process to get that rich, blue color by burying the metal in an airtight container of sawdust, garden soil, and tobacco soaked with ammonia and vinegar! That appeals to my inner mad scientist/archaeologist. I like the idea of digging up the metal later, even if it is from a Tupperware container. I'm trying that one next... The photo below shows my ammonia experiment with (from left to right) a solid copper bead, a dome of brass, a fragment of copper sheet and a larger fragment of copper sheet. The large piece of copper had the salt/vinegar splashed on top. Don't you LOVE that blue? All were finished with Modern Masters UV flat topcoat.

Of course, you must be sure to do all of this in a well ventilated area--ammonia fumes are overwhelming if you are not careful. The commercially available patinas that I mentioned earlier are odorless and easier to use, but don't give the intensity of color that you get with the ammonia treatment.

AND, let's not forget the beauty of RUST. Rust is the poor step-child of patina. You don't often think of it as a desirable patina for jewelry, right? Well I disagree! Sophisticated Finishes (from Michael's) has a rust paint and patina set. The paint contains suspended iron particles that react with the chemical patina, turning the iron a lovely orange. I have used this with brass and copper, and love the result. I layer this with blue and green patinas, sand some off, add more--it's a process. To quote Forrest Gump, "You never know what you're going to get!"

I haven't even touched on coloring sterling silver yet...I could go on forever! The most common chemical to color silver is liver of sulphur. Smells horrible, like rotten eggs, but is easy to use and you can get it at Cool Tools. It comes in chunk form--simply place a small chunk in a plastic or glass container of HOT water, and drop in your silver. Have another container of warm water mixed with baking soda on hand to immerse your silver in when you reach the desired color. The color change is immediate and will go from a lovely rainbow effect to deep, dark black in moments--so be ready to remove your silver right away. You can also brush on the liver of sulphur/water mix to better control your patina. Drop in the water/baking soda to stop the reaction and then rinse in cool water. Pat dry and seal.

Well, that's a start...I will be adding to this post as I get your responses--I hope you will join me in sharing your patina questions, secrets, ideas, and finished designs. Let's grow beautifully old together!!!